Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
